Natural vs

ITAL LIFE

Natural vs. Chemical Cosmetics

As the largest consumers of cosmetic skin and hair care preparations, Afrikans throughout the Diaspora should be aware of the seriousness of purchasing products that contain synthetic ingredients. The majority of products marketed toward Afrikans claim to work miracles for our skin and hair, when they actually create a negative pattern of dependence and even irreparable damage. It is important to familiarize yourself with the ingredients contained in products that you use for body and hair care because most of them are carcinogenic or allergenic.

Look at this abbreviated reference list to see which chemical ingredients are contained in your favorite body and hair care applications.

Chemical	Usage	Effects	Comments
Parabens (Methyl, Butyl, Propyl) a.k.a. Parahydroxybenzoic acid, Solbrol, Nipasol	Used as a preservative in shampoos, conditioners, bath and cleansing agents.	Toxic to the mucous membranes in the mouth with prolonged usage. Oral Toxic accumulation via the bloodstream.	A very harsh preservative designed to work for long periods. Counters the benefits of any natural ingredients (herbs, keratin, proteins) contained in a product.
Propylene Glycol (Polyhydric Alcohol ester)	Petroleum derivative, which is used as a humectant, dirt/ oil remover and solvent .It is the main ingredient in Anti-freeze and brake fluid.	Allergic reactions such as skin rashes.	Some products that claim to be natural, contain Propylene glycol although this is a synthetic substance. A low grade form of plastic.
PVP (Polyvinylpyrrolidone)	Used in Hairsprays and setting agents (setting lotions, wave and curl setting applications)	Inhalation will cause lung damage.
Paraffin	Wax petrochemical derivative used as an emulsifier in cosmetics.	Carcinogenic	Also used in candles, inhalation of burning paraffin particles is carcinogenic.
Petrolatum a.k.a. Petroleum Jelly	Petroleum derivative, used in hair grease, lotions, creams, oils, hair and skin applications.	Allergenic substance, which is conducive to acne, skin rashes and skin dryness.	Does not allow the skin t o breathe, disturbs the skin cell renewal cycle, coats the skin and is not absorbed by the skin or scalp (your skin is rejecting it) An environmental pollutant. Low grade form of plastic.
Cocamide DEA, MEA or MIPA	A synthetic oil and dirt removing agent used in shampoos, body washes, bubble bath, bath gels	Contains nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic.	General warning: can cause cancer to any bodily organ and component. It is easily absorbed by the skin and carried into the blood stream.
RED DYES: D&C Red 4 (Aluminum Lake), Red # 9 (Barium Lake), (Strontium Lake), (Zirconium Lake), Red # 17, Red #19( Barium Lake), (Strontium Lake), (Zirconium Lake), (Aluminum Lake), Red #3 Red # 22. F, D &C Red # 4 and 40.	Used as colorants in numerous skin and hair applications. These dyes are produced from artificial coal tars.	Carcinogenic and allergenic substances.	D & C and F, D & C are classification codes established by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which stand for "Drug and Cosmetic" and " Food, Drug and Cosmetic." These dyes may contain harmful levels of lead and arsenic.
YELLOW DYES: D&C Yellow #6 (Aluminum Lake), D&C Yellow #8, Disperse Yellow #3, F,D &C Yellow # 6 (Aluminum Lake), F, D, & C Yellow # 6
BLUE DYES: D&C Blue # 1 (Aluminum Lake), D&C Blue #2 (Aluminum Lake), D&C Blue # 4.

Natural Alternatives to Synthetic Cosmetics

RAW MATERIAL	DESCRIPTION	USAGE	EFFECTS	COMMENTS
Natural Butters	Shea, Cocoa, Mango, Kokum, Illepe, Avocado, Sal, Dhupa etc.	Used in skin and hair applications, soaps, lotions, creams etc.	Moisturizing, emollient, conditioning, humectant and repairing benefits to skin and hair.	Butters make excellent skin and hair applications. Use to prevent stretch marks and diminish blemishes.
Plant / Vegetable Oils	Olive, Sweet Almond, Coconut Grapeseed, Jojoba, Rose Hip Seed, Evening Primrose, Kukui Nut, Avocado, Flaxseed, Vegetable glycerin	Used in massage oils, lotions, butters, shampoos, hair preparations soap, creams etc.	Moisturizing, emollient, humectant and regenerative benefits to skin and hair.	Be cautious of nut oils, some people are allergic to nuts and their by-products.
Natural Waxes	Beeswax, Jojoba wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Rice Bran wax, Bayberry wax	Used as natural emulsifiers, emollients, binders and fillers in cosmetics.	Moisturizing, protective, soothing and emollient benefits to the skin	Do not apply Beeswax to the hair.
Essential Oils	Extracts from flowers, leaves, fruit, berries, bark, seeds, petals, resins, roots and stems of plant life.	Scenting oils, soaps, lotions; all hair and body products. Aromatherapy, Medicinal preparations for various skin and scalp conditions.	Essential oils will condition and nourish the skin and hair.	Dilute essential oils in plant/vegetable oils, butters and waxes. Use caution when handling essential oils, some may irritate the skin and mucus membranes. Perform a patch test before using essential oils to discover possible allergies to these substances.
Natural Soaps/Clenasers	Vegetable Castile Soap, Shea Butter Soap, Black Soap, Soapnut, etc.	Soap, Shampoo, Bathing products and Cleansers.	Gentle, but effective cleansing. Moisturizing to skin and hair. Will not disturb the pH of the skin and scalp.	Make a shampoo or body wash by combining Castile soap with essential oils. Some Companies use animal derived Castile soap.
Natural Preservatives	Vitamin E (Alpha Tocopherol), Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid), Vitamin A (Retinol), Wheat Germ Oil, Grapefruit Seed Extract (GSE), Rosemary Oil Extract (ROE), Lemons, Limes	To slow down bacterial growth and oxidation of fats and oils in cosmetics.	These preservatives are natural and work just as well as harsh chemical preservatives. They do not cause negative side effects.	Beware of synthetic Vitamin A,C and E.
Natural Colorants/Pigments	Annato, Comfrey, Turmeric, Henna, Caramel, Saffron, Beta-carotene, Chlorophyll, Cherry/Beet Juice, Guaiazulene, Indigo, Nettle, Alkanet,	Coloring/Dying cosmetic applications.	Adds rich, vivid, natural hues to cosmetic applications.	These ingredients can be heated, melted, boiled, soaked, infused etc. to extract pigment.

Here’s how you can replace your chemical laden cosmetic applications with natural alternatives:

Instead of using petrolatum-based cosmetics, use products that contain natural ingredients such as Shea (Karite) butter, Beeswax, natural plant waxes and plant oils (olive, sweet almond, etc.) These ingredients can be made to resemble the texture of petroleum jelly and are found in many natural skin and hair care products. They can also, be purchased in raw form.

Avoid products that contain harsh chemical preservatives, (Parabens, DMDM hydantoin etc.) Look for products that specify natural preservative usage or search for these ingredients: Rosemary oil extract (ROE), Grapefruit Seed Extract (GSE), Vitamin E (Alpha- Tocopherol/ Mixed Tocopherols), Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid) and Wheat Germ oil. Do not purchase cosmetics that contain both natural and synthetic preservatives–synthetic ingredients do not become natural when combined with natural ingredients. Natural preservatives extend the shelf life of a product without inhibiting the properties of other ingredients and they supply the skin with nutrients.

Chemical fillers, binders and emulsifiers enhance the texture of cosmetics by stabilizing oil and water mixtures. They also act as thickening agents. Be sure to purchase cosmetics that claim to be free of Paraffin, microcrystalline, and mineral/petrolatum based waxes, these are common chemical emulsifiers.

Refrain from purchasing products that contain synthetic fragrances. These substances do not contain beneficial plant extracts and are inexpensive essential oil imitations. It might be difficult to resist the mango and plum scented cosmetics out there, but cancer is an even better reason to avoid these unnatural additives. They are carcinogenic and often allergenic. Opt for products that contain natural essential oils and balsam resins. In addition to lending products their characteristic aromas, these natural ingredients nourish the skin and hair, while providing aromatherapeutic benefits.

Most soap, shampoos cleansing agents and bath products contain harsh surfactants, detergents, foaming agents and animal by-products, which deteriorate natural oils produced by the body. They cause allergic reactions that can be permanently damaging with repeated use and they disturb the natural pH of the skin. Natural soaps such as, Vegetable Castile soap, is an excellent alternative to most synthetic soaps and shampoos. It is an olive oil based soap that will not deplete the body of precious oils. Soapnut, Black soap and Shea Butter soap are natural cleansers that will moisturize and condition the body and hair without causing negative side effects.

Synthetic colorants are produced from coal tar, which contain substantial traces of lead and arsenic. These substances are responsible for causing the development of cancerous cells and allergic reactions. Recurrent use of products containing these chemical dyes will eventually cause harm, not only to the skin but all other bodily organs. Be cautious of all Ammonia based Aluminum based, acid based, D&C and FD&C colorants, they are definitely carcinogenic. Purchase products that contain these natural alternatives: Annato, Turmeric, Comfrey, Chlorophyll, Indigo, Henna, Caramel (burnt sugar), Beta-carotene and Guaiazulene (Chamomile derivative, Cherry Juice, Beet juice, Alkanet, Nettle, etc. They are just as vibrant and effective as synthetic colorants and are not carcinogenic.

SEARCHING FOR NATURAL COSMETICS

It may seem impossible to locate stores that carry natural cosmetics, but these products are actually available in many retail and wholesale outlets.

Check out your local ethnic store, health food store and natural chain markets. Some of the larger natural chains carry many of these items.

Request that your local drug stores carry natural cosmetics. If enough people demand such products, store owners will give you what you want.

The World Wide Web hosts an abundance of on-line natural cosmetics companies. You can purchase brand name items or raw materials such as, essential oils, Shea butter, Castile soap and plant oils in bulk quantities. Perform a search and you will find several listings for what you are looking for.

GLOSSARY OF TERMS

Emulsifier: An emulsifier is used in products that contain water and oil or like substances. It binds them in together to form a stable mixture.

Surfactant: A substance contained shampoos, soap, detergents, bathing and cleansing

agents that extract dirt and oil from the skin and bind it together so that it can

be washed away.

Binder: See Emulsifier.

Animal By-products: Animal by-products in cosmetics can range from beeswax, which is derived

from honeycomb to tallow, which is the extract from the fatty tissue of cows,

pigs, etc. They are used to enhance cosmetic applications, make soap, colorants and glycerin.

Preservative: Preservatives are additives, whether natural or chemical, that slow

down the natural process of decay, spoilage and discoloration

caused by bacterial growth and oxidation.

Allergen: A substance that provokes allergic responses from the immune

system.

Oxidation: A process that naturally occurs when oxygen molecules alter the

molecular structure of fats and oils by forming unstable molecular

compounds. The fats and oils become rancid and eventually

decay due to oxidation.

Humectant: A substance, which attracts and retains atmospheric moisture to

the skin.

Carcinogenic: Any substance or agent that is a catalyst in the formation of cancerous cells.

Filler: A substance, which augments the characteristics (weight, potency, hue,

viscosity) of a product.

WORKS CITED

Hampton, Aubrey. Natural Organic Hair and Skin Care, Tampa, Florida: Organica Press, 1987.

Miller-Cavitch, Susan. The Natural Soap Book: Making Herbal and Vegetable Soaps. Pownal, Vermont: Storey Publishing, 1995.

Curtis, Susan. Neal’s Yard Remedies: Essential Oils, London, England: Aurum Press Ltd., 1996.

Andersen, Kristin. "Cosmetic Colorants", Health & Nutrition Breakthroughs, Healthwell Magazine.com, April 1998.

THIS INFORMATION WAS COMPILED BY URBANFACEZ HEALTH EDITOR NAKIA MATTHIAS. NAKIA PRODUCES KAYA BUDS, A LINE OF ALL NATURAL/HOLISTIC BODY CARE PRODUCTS.